Montenegro

The Baba

BABA

In a village in the outback of Montenegro, a four foot hunched-back Baba clings on to my leg while stroking my forearm. She has mistaken me for her granddaughter. And at this moment there is a fresh loaf of bread in the oven, so I’m allowing this mistaken identity. This warm greeting makes me feel nostalgic and I from now on just want to be held in her arms as she strokes my head and feeds me warm bread. But she releases me from her clammy grasp and I’m left admiring her from afar. Her mauve floral scarf covers her peppered hair, which leaves her face vulnerable for my eager observation.  Her face is laced with deep groves which only get deeper as she parades her single snaggle tooth smile at me.

As she’s slowly making her way to the stove, she grabs her walking stick. Like her hands, the stick is raw and unrefined. Pieces of bark and slivers protrude as she nonchalantly clasps on for support.

I’m not really sure what to do, so I sit on wobbly stool beside the grandfather, whose laying on the bed staring at the beige water stained ceiling. The room is bare and silent, as the only noise being produced is the static coming from the miniature television set sitting on the window sill. The static is broken with words from the grandfather. He starts speaking about dates, casually listing the birthdays of every family member. I ask him what his birthday is – he doesn’t remember.

I watch the Baba at the stove – walking stick in one hand, she spoons out some liquid from a pot, pauses, adds salt, pauses, tastes again, seems satisfied and turns off the burner. I ask if I can help – she denies my offer. With one hand gripping her walking stick, the Baba returns with a pot of  hot soup in the other  and a loaf of steaming, luscious bread balancing on top of the lid.  She takes a bowl, and ladles out two large scoops of this chocolate brown, chunky soup. A chill goes through my legs, but I ignore it as I’m mentally consumed by the bread.

I look down at the soup. Strange, I think to myself. The meat are various shades of brown and grey which sit stiffly in my bowl. My hunger leaves me investing only mere seconds to identify the mystical meat. After a couple spoons, the taste of the meat triggers my childhood memories. I know this taste. I’ve tasted this taste. I’ve felt this sloshing around in my mouth before.

Now mindful of the soup, my bites are small and my chews are slower. Which is unusual for myself, as I take pride in my inability to savor my food with a technique I like to call vaccuming. The next spoonful of soup was of great interest because I have never seen this object lay lifelessly in my spoon before. White, tubular and squishy,  I chew it while I ask the grandson what soup this is. Sheep soup. I swallow down the remaining fragments of meat and form a smile of appreciation. The Baba proudly continues describing how the soup is made. The conversation starts right off with the specifics of the sheep. Intestine, liver and kidney.

I swallow the chunk of meat and muster up a grin, which results with another ladle of stew in my bowl.  I stare at my bowl calculating the ratio of stew to bread. I eat half the loaf – my calculations were correct. Though, I was not aware that these calculations would dub me in the village as the “healthy eater”.

Montenegro vs Ukraine… also known as Me vs. every football fan at that game

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Went to my first football game on the weekend to watch the qualifying 2014 world cup game, Montenegro vs. Ukraine.

Now, as someone who has only been to a Canadian soccer game, where the fans are as exciting as a spare tire, this definitely woke me up. With a stadium having a capacity of 12,000 people, whoever built this stadium decided that less entrances are better. GREAT IDEA.  For 30 minutes, I was squished like a sardine in between every drunk football man. Which, as much as that may sound like a taste of heaven, it wasn’t.  Did I want to be harassed, unable to move or even defend myself? OF COURSE. IT WAS MY ONLY INTENTION OF STANDING IN THAT LINE. Flares going off everywhere, riot police standing around like armed monkeys. And then, in the corner, a man, selling peanuts.

I appreciate and respect that football is an international sport which allows for basically anyone to play. But watching the fans at the game, was like watching 12,000 villagers.  Ukrainian people were being attacked and pushed around, it was as though every idiot was at game.

WHY CAN’T WE ALL JUST GET ALONG.

enough I say!

anyways, moving forward, the rest of the weekend was spent at the beach eating cevapi, kajmak and bread.

I can feel the blood clots.

A half ass semi visual of my walk home

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This is a lada. I just like this car. Moving on,

 

Many people haven’t taken a step into Serbia, I mean, I probably wouldn’t have either if I wasn’t Serbian. Usually people will say “oh I really want to go to Greece or Spain or Mexico”. I get it.  Yeah those places are awesome, southern, hot, passionate countries, and I feel like people don’t realize that places like Serbia or Montenegro are like that too.

ANYWAYS, enough of this. I shall show you my walk house.  Well this is  pretty much pictures of two streets. BUT THESE STREETS ARE FILLED WITH MYSTERY AND SECRETS.

 

I never noticed how much graffiti Belgrade is covered in, and in completely unusual places too.

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a close-up.

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I walk those stairs everyday, which you’re probably thinking that’s not that bad, but this is the check point where all of a sudden my bladder kicks in and I have to pee. I will make bladder strong.

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i don’t know who these people are, but its beautiful

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okay, so 3/4’s up those stairs, there’s this beautiful apartment building on the left. I found out they renovated this apartment building into a restaurant. At night, this soft romantic aura fills this space.

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walking past the restaurant, straight ahead, is this gypsy shack made out of crates and cardboard. its doesn’t look big, but it’s a huge gypsy house. These ones have a bit of a hoarding issue.

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another close-up.

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I just can’t stop taking pictures of this. I’m in love with the rustic worn-out brick buildings,

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This mix between graffiti and old brick buildings have this type of  “Romeo + Juliette” vibe. You know, the movie with Leonardo Dicaprio and Claire Danes? This city has a weird mixture of old and new.  And it’s romantic, and mysterious, and delightful.

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This is my favorite one.

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